• Minetti’s college pal testifies to night at Berlusconi party
  More salacious details are coming out about the "bunga bunga" parties at Berlusconi's mansion. The latest witness apparently called the mansion "a whorehouse" during a wire-tapped phone call.
• Carabiniere officer among 15 ‘Ndrangheta arrests
  Among those arrested in the recent crackdown by the anti-mafia police is one policeman – a Carabiniere officer in Calabria who "is accused of mafia association."
• Anniversaries in Italian History: Dates Every Curious Traveler to Italy Should Know
  This month's Italy Roundtable marked our one-year annivesary since the first post, so we talked about – what else? – anniversaries! For her post, Melanie covers important dates in Italian history that every traveler should know. Why? Because you'll see them everywhere as the names of streets and piazzas.
• Italy Roundtable: Happy Anniversary to Us!
  Rebecca notes that not all years are created equally, although the same amount of time passes for each one. She's had a pretty big-deal year, and it's kind of exciting (to me, anyway) that each of the Italy Roundtable members has had something to do with that.
• Predicting our future: a first date at Niki de Saint Phalle’s Tarot Garden in Maremma
  I've always wanted to visit the Niki de Saint Phalle sculpture garden in Tuscany, ever since I saw photos of it years ago, so I love that Alexandra's Italy Roundtable post is about her first visit there – on her first date with her future husband! Coincidentally, they have an anniversary coming up this month, too.
• Celebrating your wedding anniversary in Tuscany
  In her Italy Roundtable post, Gloria's highlighted the things you can do in Tuscany if you're celebrating an anniversary there – including museums and crafts involving paper, wood, crystal, and china.
• Kneecapping of Italian nuclear power firm boss prompts terrorism fears
  A shooting in Genoa has brought back memories of the terrorism of the Red Brigades 40 years ago. (via @andreavogt on Twitter)
• Tips for Visiting Rome in Summer
  Among some of the often-repeated tips on this list were a few I hadn't thought of before – including "bring deodorant from home." Why? Italian deodorant doesn't include anti-perspirant, which is something you'll miss in the height of a Roman summer.
• 20 arrested in Catania mafia sweep
  The anti-mafia police continue to make arrests in southern Italy – this time in Catania. Among those arrested was a long-time mafia boss who was released from jail in 2010 after serving 18 years. He had been trying to reorganize what police are calling a "decimated" clan.
• Senior citizen throws self in Po River after tax bill
  This is another in the increasing number of Italians who attempt suicide after getting a tax bill or having their pension cut. This man survived, but many have not.

anno – (noun) year

It feels like not so long ago I was visiting Italy for the first time, head poking out of the top of the water taxi from Marco Polo Airport to the canal city of Venice, sea air blasting me in the face and occasional tiny drops of water pelting my cheeks, utterly awe-struck at every single thing in my frame of sight. The taxi spilled us onto the sidewalk and we turned a corner as St. Mark’s Square curled in around us, opening its arms and enfolding us at the same time, the late-July sun still radiating from the stones under our feet. The light may have been fading, but that only meant there was a serenely ethereal glow cast across a city that, to this day, remains my favorite in all of Italy.

At least that’s how I remember it.

The year was 2001, and I was a mere 29 years old at the time. Today, having just turned 40 and with so many Italy trips in my rear-view mirror that I honestly can’t recall how many times I’ve been there, I’m prone to romanticizing that first trip like it’s something out of a Merchant Ivory film. I make no apologies for this. Italy has this effect on people, and I’m not immune.

My days in Italy feel as if they’ve blurred into one, details slipping through my fingers, but when I think of how the Italians use the word for “year” I’m inclined to think those moments aren’t truly lost.

Quanti anni hai?, they ask when they want to know how old you are, but the words mean “how many years do you have?” We possess those years, whether we can recall every second or not. I possess Italy in a similar way, by having visited the country, soaking up each trip through seemingly insignificant moments that get tucked into spots in my brain I may never find again – but probably don’t need to.

Last year marked a decade since my first trip to Italy, and it was also (somewhat ironically, I realize) the first year I haven’t set foot in the country in nearly the same amount of time. I would be lying if I said I wasn’t sad about missing out on celebrating my 10-year anniversary with Italy in Italy, but when I think about all those years I have – all those days, minutes, seconds spent drinking in Italy like a sponge – I know that Italy will always be in me, even if I’m not always in Italy.

Italy is simultaneously there – sitting on the dock of southern Europe and dangling the toe of its boot in the Mediterranean – and here, a stubborn ember in my heart. This means, of course, that I happily carry Italy with me wherever I go. It also means I am never quite as whole as when I’m there.

Aspettami, cara. Torno subito.

Other Voices from the Italy Blogging Roundtable

Happiest of happy anniversaries to my Italy Blogging Roundtable cohorts! Find out what anniversaries they’re talking about by clicking on the links below.

• ArtTrav – Predicting our future: a first date at Niki de Saint Phalle’s Tarot Garden in Maremma
• At Home in Tuscany – Celebrating your wedding anniversary in Tuscany
• Brigolante – Happy Anniversary to Us!
• Italofile – Anniversaries in Italian History: Dates Every Curious Traveler to Italy Should Know

Invited Guests at the Italy Roundtable

Last month we asked you to pull up a chair to the Italy Roundtable – yes, you – if you had something to say on any one of the topics we’ve covered in the previous year. Many of you took us up on the offer. Here are a few of my favorites.

• Kate paints a lovely picture of an evening in Sicily; it’s why she says she came to Italy, although I’d guess she may not have known that when she first arrived. Such is the charm of the country – you don’t know why you’re there until long after you’re there.
• Kate evidently was so taken with our invitation that she actually wrote two posts in reply – the second is about a gift given to her by a former student, and I dare you to read it without ending up with a big grin on your face.
• Nerys wrote about how her version of comfort food has changed since leaving Wales and moving to Milan – it’s no longer chicken soup.
• Lisa writes about Italy for the same reasons she feels at home there – and much of that has to do with how the women in her family take on renovation projects.
• Linda has lots of reasons to write about Italy – some practical, some ethereal, and all lovely.
• Diana’s poetic post about the elements has the calming effect of a deep breath (which I’m fairly certain she intended). Also, I’d love to see the sunset from that little wall by her barn someday.

Gifts the Italy Roundtable Gave Ourselves

The traditional one-year anniversary gift may be paper, but we’re a virtual blogging group and write without pen and ink, so we thought we’d give ourselves the 21st century version instead. That’s why you’ll now find the Italy Roundtable on Facebook and on Twitter!

Italy Roundtable Suggestion Box

As we mentioned last month, we’ve covered a number of diverse topics in the past year – and we’ve got all sorts of ideas on topics to cover in the future. But we also thought you might have some ideas of subjects to suggest, too. If you’ve got a suggestion for an Italy Roundtable topic we should tackle, leave a comment on the Italy Roundtable Facebook page.

photo by Rob Young

• Italy Roundtable on Facebook
  At long last, a year after we first started, the Italy Roundtable has its own Facebook page! Have you enjoyed our themed ruminations over the past year? Come "like" the Facebook page, where we're working on posting an archive of all the posts we've done.
• Truck in Naples stopped with cocaine hidden behind mayonnaise jars
  Apparently 23 tons of mayo isn't enough to hide 62 kg of cocaine from the police.
• Door-to-door hands on cooking lesson in Venice
  Here's yet another perk of renting an apartment in Venice during your trip – you could have an Italian cooking lesson right at "home!" The folks from Cook in Venice will come to you, teaching you how to cook a 4-course Venetian meal during a 3-hour lesson.
• Pink Flamingos in Italy?
  As I am one Oregonian in love with Italy, I've been enjoying following along with Bethany & Ted of TwoOregonians.com on their recent Italian adventures. This post is a sweet portrait of a relaxed side of Italy, which – really, I promise – isn't so terribly hard to find.
• Calabria Travel Deals
  Planning a trip to Calabria or elsewhere in Southern Italy? My friend Cherrye at My Bella Vita offers discounts on her travel consulting services & travel packages each week to her Facebook community.
• Man hangs himself in playground
  The number of suicides by people who are distraught over their own personal economic woes (as a result of Italy's economic woes) continues to increase. This man was in Vicenza, part of the Veneto, which has the "highest nationwide number of small-business owners who have committed suicide."
• Marinella, the Neapolitan king of ties
  You've got to get up really early to get ties at this shop – between 6-9am, say the proprietors, is the best time!
• Venice looks to restore Rialto Bridge
  …And if you've got a spare few-million-euro lying around, you could be the heralded benefactor behind the Venice monument's restoration.
• Italian art experts accused of censoring phallic fresco
  A 13th century "tree of fertility" fresco in Tuscany recently went through a restoration – but in the process, the experts who did the restoration work have been accused of painting over "the numerous penises and testicles" which used to hang from the tree's branches.
• Venice Celebrates the 100th Anniversary of the Campanile di San Marco
  Did you know Venice's Campanile is just 100 years old?
• Film: Must See: Habemus Papam
  I saw this Nanni Moretti film earlier this year at an international film festival, and it was all kinds of delightful – with an unexpected "that'll make you think" element, too.
• Unemployed Italians become shepherds
  The high unemployment rate among Italy's young people has led some of them to follow in their parents' footsteps tending livestock.
• Ferraris snag Italy’s tax dodgers
  It seems like a no-brainer, but those with the windfall of extra cash from not paying their taxes can't seem to resist big spending on luxury goods. It's these purchases that are helping police catch tax evaders in Italy.
• Why Italians Think I’m Weird
  I just love this list… I can relate to so many of the things the author does to alternately horrify or confuse the Italians – #10 most of all.
• Pizzeria Sorbillo in Naples Damaged in Fire
  I saw news of this last week, but it was all in Italian. Here's some info in English on Katie Parla's site. (Katie is the one who gushed about Naples to me prior to my first visit, which I'm sure helped me fall in love with the city.)
• My First Post-Flood Stroll Down Vernazza’s Main Street
  Rick Steves shares a brief video he shot while visiting Vernazza – you can see the damage still visible on the town's main street, but also that life has returned (along with the visitors) to the main square. The mayor even makes a cameo appearance!
• Hospitalised Andreotti ‘joking, breathing normally’
  Senator for Life and former Italian Prime Minister Giulio Andreotti, subject of the film "Il Divo," has been hospitalized with heart trouble. The 93-year-old politician is said to be in "serious but stable" condition.
• Priest sentenced for child sex abuse
  A priest in Genoa was arrested based on phone tapped conversations with drug dealers in which he allegedly arranged for meet-ups with minors. His lawyers say they'll appeal.

• 6 Ways to Make Your Italian Vacation More Interesting
  Italy is an incredibly popular tourist destination, yes – but there are still ways to make your vacation pictures stand out from everyone else's. You can visit a region most people don't get to, or focus on one aspect of the culture (like the food!). This article highlights a few ways to make your Italian holiday a bit more unique.
• Five Foods To Avoid in Italy
  In this guest post I wrote for Matt of LandLopers.com, I'm highlighting things you should NOT eat in Italy – as a way to help you find the good stuff.
• Venice Decoded: Uncovering the City’s Signs and Symbols
  I love all the tidbits in this post, but I was especially excited to learn about the symbolism of a Venetian gondola – I'd never heard any of that before. I'll never look at a gondola the same way again…
• Rome… For People Who Don’t Like Cities
  This is an excellent set of tips for anyone who feels overwhelmed by Rome (ahem, like me) or is just overwhelmed by the idea of any big city.
• Over 2.5 million Italians unemployed, highest since 2004
  Italy's unemployment numbers have been dismal for years, but new statistics show they're getting even worse.
• In Orgosolo, preserving ancient silk art
  Did you think silk was only made in China? Would you be surprised if you found out you could find silk-makers in Sardinia? (via @Charming_Italy on Twitter)
• Mystery Tuscany: 12 Places. 12 Stories. A Fantastical Journey.
  I love this… 12 short films about various places around Tuscany, each with a mysterious story to tell. You can watch each one online or on your iPhone (each costs 0.79euro), & judging by the preview they're beautifully made.
• An Afternoon at Gladiator School in Rome
  I've heard of this gladiator school in Rome before, but I've never done it. This post from my friend Amie shows why so many traveling families love to bring their kids to this school!
• The perils of being LGBT in Italy
  Italians don't exactly have progressive attitudes toward anything other than heterosexual relationships, and some gay people in Italy blame the Catholic church's influence for Italy being 20+ years behind much of the rest of Europe on gay rights issues. (via @vespadiaries on Twitter)
• Northern League councillor ‘kills self over fraud’
  Things continue to get worse for Italy's Northern League party…
• 2012 Language Immersion Tour in Puglia: August 19th – 26th
  If you like the idea of challenging yourself with the Italian language, of taking your skills to the next level, all while enjoying an Italian vacation – then you might be interested in this trip. (via @michellefabio on Twitter)
• Train traffic disrupted after Roma Termini collision
  Two Frecciarossa trains going about 30km per hour collided at Rome's Termini station, causing a delay to train traffic in and out of Rome. No passengers were hurt in the collision, and a few members of the train crew suffered only minor injuries.
• Italian census data released
  New data on the Italian population shows that the percentage of foreigners living in Italy has increased dramatically in the last decade – it's nearly three times what it was 10 years ago. Another finding in the data is that people living in what are described as "rough" conditions – camper vans, tents, huts – has also tripled in the last decade.
• The Power of Art – Caravaggio (complete episode)
  I recall loving the BBC's Simon Schama art series – each one was educational & fascinating. I had no idea entire episodes were available online! Here's the Caravaggio episode (others are on the right-hand column, if you've got a few spare hours). (via @3pipenet & @understandrome on Twitter)
• Half young Italians think mafia ‘stronger than State’
  I'm not surprised by the findings of this survey at all…
• Apps for Venice
  Well, that's a fun use for Pinterest! A hotel in Venice created a Pinterest board just for Venice iPhone & other smartphone apps.
• World’s Most Delicious Street Food
  So, I'll acknowledge that most of this slideshow has nothing to do with Italy – but the fact that they've highlighted my favorite pizzeria in Naples (which also serves kick-ass fried goodies at the take-away window) makes me very happy, indeed.

The Tuscan Maremma

If you have never heard of the Tuscan Maremma then you’re missing out on one of the most genuine and humbly beautiful territories left in Italy.

Think quiet country towns where traditions are still celebrated in vibrantly colored festivals. Think sunflower-flooded fields and open spaces. Think locals who still sit in front of the sandstone homes they have owned for generations. And think dishes prepared following family recipes with not even a whisper of a tourist menu in sight.

Intrepid Italians have been heading to the Tuscan Maremma, tucked inconspicuously between the borders of Southern Tuscany and Lazio, for decades. They come here for the territory’s unparalleled natural beauty, which transitions from gorgeous beach and breathtaking nature reserve to snow-dusted mountain peak, all in a matter of kilometers.

Far from the bright lights and tourists of nearby cities Rome, Florence and Siena, the Tuscan Maremma has also ferociously maintained its heritage and culture, first shaped by the pre-Roman Etruscans, but influenced by medieval warlords, Spanish invaders and Renaissance dukes.

But best of all, the Tuscan Maremma has kept its provincial charm, giving you the chance to experience the Tuscan countryside as a true local, even if it is only for a little while.

On this page, you’ll find information about the Tuscan Maremma including how to get there and what to do once you arrive.

Navigating the Tuscan Maremma

If you look up the Tuscan Maremma on a map, you won’t find it. Officially the territory goes by the rather dry name Provincia di Grosseto or Grosseto Province, but the locals have been calling it the Maremma for centuries and no one can seem to find a good enough reason to stop doing so now.

In the past, the Tuscan Maremma was a cluster of very independent states, which has left its modern residents with almost no inclination to band together to form one unified provincial transport system. This can make traveling on public transport fairly difficult. Some areas are serviced by a very efficient train network, but most aren’t. That said, if you have patience and aren’t easily fazed then you can reach almost every corner of the territory by bus.

Still, you’re better off renting a car. The Tuscan highways in the territory aren’t heavily trafficked so you don’t have to worry about aggressive drivers. If you’re flying into the Tuscan Maremma then pick up a car at the airport. The two closest airports are Rome’s Fiumicino and Pisa’s Galileo Galilei, depending on where you’re staying, and this is where it gets tricky. Geographically, the Maremma covers almost one third of Tuscany. That means it will take you at least three hours to get from one end to the other, if you’re lucky.

Whether you’re traveling by car or public transport, you can’t hope to see all of the Tuscan Maremma in one hit unless you want to spend the majority of your vacation in transit. The best thing to do is make a list of everything you want to see before you leave and plan your journey around that. If you want beaches, base yourself on the Argentario Coast. If you want to see the glory of the Etruscan empire, head for Vulci and the Fiora Valley. While if you want to immerse yourself in naturalistic pursuits, set yourself up in Monte Amiata.

Where to Stay in the Tuscan Maremma

If you couldn’t possibly imagine staying in anything but utmost luxury than the Tuscan Maremma has a handful of high-end hotels. You’ll find them in the main tourist spots – Grosseto, Massa Marittima, Saturnia and the Argentario Coast.

But as magnificent as these hotels are, they’re not going to offer you a real sense of the Tuscan Maremma. So much of this territory’s charm lies in the fact that it is a provincial destination, unfussy and untouched by excessive tourism, so if you stay in a five star hotel, you’re kind of missing the point.

You’d be better off booking a B&B or agriturismo. Not only are both considerably cheaper than any hotel, they’re also family owned, so you’ll wake up to a homemade breakfast of local sweets and coffee, usually included in the price, and plenty of friendly banter from the owners.

As an added plus, agriturismi are usually working farms. They’ve been a staple in the Maremma since a few plucky farmers realized tourists wanted to stay on their considerable and considerably beautiful farmlands to experience the Tuscan lifestyle.

Most agriturismi offer you the choice of room or apartment, depending on the size of your group, and are usually converted historical buildings decorated in the typical country Maremman style – think vintage furniture and exposed beams.

When it comes to entertainment, most agriturismi will have a pool at the very least, but you could also be treated to wine tasting sessions, cooking and horse riding lessons, olive oil and cheese making demonstrations, fishing trips and bike tours, the list goes on. Not to mention, there are always the hectares of open countryside for you to walk through or the kids to run wild through.

What to Do in the Tuscan Maremma

The Maremma is one of the few places in the world that can really claim it has something for everyone.

If you want beaches, you can while away the days on the crystal clear sands of the Argentario Coast, between Porto Ercole and Porto Santo Stefano. Not impressed? Then book a tour to Giannutri Island. A breathtaking marine park, the island is only an hour from the mainland, giving you plenty of time to explore its beauty above and below the waterline.

If you’re looking for a bit of history, pull on your sightseeing boots and pick an era. Every century from pre-historic to Etruscan, Roman, Medieval and Renaissance is represented somewhere in the Tuscan Maremma. But for a quick fix, don’t miss Vulci, one of the abandoned capitals of the Etruscan empire, Etruria, and now a massive open-air museum.

If you’re a naturalist by nature then you’re literally spoilt for choice in this corner of Southern Tuscany. Every year, hundreds of cycling enthusiasts pack their bags and their bikes and head for the trails that weave their way through the Tuscany Maremma’s many nature parks. Those of us without bikes need not worry, there are plenty of other ways to appreciate the territory’s incredible beauty including hiking, horse riding, skiing and sailing.

And finally, if you’re itching for a spa holiday, forget about all the other activities mentioned above and head straight for Saturnia. The Tuscan Maremma is trumped as Italy’s hottest hot spring destination and Saturnia is its capital. It’s there that you’ll find the paradisiacal Cascate del Mulino hot springs, where you can relax in 37°C water for free with the gorgeous Tuscan countryside as your backdrop. You’ll never want to leave.

Then of course, there’s the food, but you’re in Tuscany after all, so it should come as no surprise that Maremman fare is some of the finest you’ll have ever tasted!

About the Author:
Elisa is an Australian journalist who came to Tuscany for a year, fell in love, how cliché? And decided to stick around. Not one to keep paradisaical holiday destinations to herself, she now writes a Tuscan travel blog and online travel guide about the infinitely beautiful Tuscan Maremma, so that others can get a taste of la dolce vita.

photos by: ComunicaTI, Elisa Scarton (and may not be used without permission), strato56, JarleR

• Nerdy Day Trips
  I haven't played much with this site yet, but I love the idea – the stuff they seem to be calling "nerdy" are the off-beat attractions & museums that can make a trip unique, interesting, & memorable. The England map is far more crammed with "nerdy day trip" ideas than the Italy map, but you can also add your own "nerdy" suggestions – so if you've got some for Italy, add them in! (via @joshywashington on Twitter)
• La Spezia, Italy
  The big draw on this part of the Ligurian coast may be the Cinque Terre, but nearby La Spezia is worth a visit in its own right – here are some reasons why. (via @WalksofItaly on Twitter)
• Senator paid mafia for Berlusconi say court documents
  The supreme court in Italy says that Berlusconi used an Italian Senator (with alleged mafia ties dating back decades) as the go-between to make payments to the mafia on his behalf.
• Springtime in Atrani
  If you need a little dose of Italian springtime, this is the post for you – a collection of photos from the town of Atrani, taken by my friend Laura. Enjoy!
• 44 Camorra arrests
  The police have made more arrests of Camorra (the mafia in and around Naples) members. This time, the twist was that many of the already-jailed Camorra leaders' wives were arrested, having taken over for their husbands.
• Pompeii wall collapses, despite new conservation initiative
  Yes, another collapse has happened at Pompeii. Yes, the spotlight has been on the crumbling archaeological site in recent weeks, but new funds and promises can't hit the pause button immediately. (via @freyasflorence on Twitter)
• Female Gladiators? Tantalizing New Evidence From Ancient Rome
  A 2,000-year-old bronze statue may depict a female gladiator. The object in her hand was previously thought to be a kind of cleaning tool, but some now believe it's a gladiator's weapon. (via @revealedrome on Twitter)
• Italian soccer at ‘point of no return’ after Genoa shame
  Play was stopped for quite awhile during a soccer game in Genoa when fans protesting their team's poor form threw smoke bombs onto the field and then, when play had stopped, got onto the pitch and demanded that players remove their shirts – saying they weren't fit to wear them. The team has been punished for the fans' actions, with the next two games to be played in empty stadiums, but the Italian soccer world is looking at the events in Genoa as a symptom of a greater ill in the sport. In particular, there is the question of players who acquiesced when asked by angry fans to remove their shirts – who, exactly, is running the show? The teams or the fans?
• ART: Is It Right To Destroy In Order To Discover?
  This is another look at the controversy over drilling holes in a Vasari fresco in the hunt for a (supposed) Da Vinci behind it. Who, the author asks, gets to decide whether a Vasari or Da Vinci is more important? And is it ever okay to destroy one thing in order to discover another?
• Timeout
  If you read Italian & you're a basketball fan, you might enjoy the blog on Corriere's website of Italian basketball player Danilo Gallinari, who plays for the Denver Nuggets!
• Italy museum burns art to protest against crisis
  While I can sympathize with an art director who can't get funding for his museum, I can't get beyond thinking that destroying some of the art in that very museum in protest and to draw attention to a lack of funds is NOT OKAY. (via @GemelliPress on Twitter)
• High-speed railway makes inaugural run
  The new NTV high-speed railway – a new endeavor that aims to compete not just with Trenitalia but also with low-cost airlines – made its debut run when the first NTV train left Naples on April 20th, headed for Milan.
• $800-million ancient Rome theme park planned – in Rome
  This seems like it would be a joke – building a theme park of Ancient Roman sites a few KM from the actual Ancient Roman sites – but, apparently, it's not. Seriously, is there not something more useful that money could be spent on?!? Here I thought the country was in some kind of economic crisis… (via @percheroma)

Naples, like Venice, is right on the water – so the cruise terminal is within easy reach of the fascinating historic city center. You can get there and back easily within the timeframe required by your cruise ship, and you can even do a DIY trip to Pompeii or Herculaneum if you plan it right. But first, you’ve got to get your bearings.

This article will show you where the Naples cruise terminal is in relation to the rest of the city, help you figure out how to get there, and also how to get into the city (or any other day trips you want to do) from your cruise ship.

More useful links for visiting Naples on a cruise:

• Discount Shore Excursions for Italian Ports
• Top 10 Things to Do in Naples
• How to Get from Naples to Sorrento
• How to Do a DIY Tour of Pompeii & Herculaneum

Location of the Naples Cruise Port/Terminal of Naples

As mentioned, the Naples cruise port is near the historic city center. In fact, since Naples is right on the water, much of the waterfront is taken up by docks for various ships – everything from cargo to small ferries and hydrofoils to cruise ships. The bulk of the passenger ships, however, are in the same general area.

This map shows the location of where most of the cruise ships dock, as well as the city’s main train station, and the excellent archaeology museum. The airport and Sorrento/Amalfi Coast aren’t on this map, but there are also arrows indicating which direction they’re in. The historic center of Naples isn’t marked with an arrow, but you’ll see it labeled on the map between the cruise port and the archaeology museum with the words “Centro Storico.”

Passenger traffic is concentrated at an area of the waterfront called Molo Angioino (where the arrow is pointing in the map above), with some of the smaller boats also at Molo Beverello. In particular, boats to Sorrento, the Amalfi Coast, and the islands in the Bay of Naples generally depart from Molo Beverello.

How to Get to the Naples Cruise Port from the Naples Airport

Naples’ airport, commonly called Capodichino, is very close to the city center. The Metro system in Naples isn’t terribly robust, and although there’s talk of running a Metro line out to the airport at some point, there’s no guarantee of when (or if) that’ll ever materialize. In the meantime, your options for getting to the Naples cruise port from the airport are public buses or taxis.

• Public Bus – ANM operates an Alibus line that departs from the airport in front of arrivals. These buses stop at both Piazza Garibaldi (in front of the main train station) and Piazza Municipio (near Molo Beverello at the port). A one-way ticket is €3.00, and the bus leaves from the airport roughly every 20 minutes between 06:36-23:45 Monday-Friday and 06:36-23:56 Saturday-Sunday. Consult the official schedule for exact departure times. You can buy tickets right on board the bus. The trip from the airport to the port takes about 15 minutes.
• Taxi – Because the airport is so close to the city, a taxi trip isn’t as expensive as you might think an airport taxi would be. Not only that, there’s a fixed rate for taxi trips between the airport and the Molo Beverello port. These fixed rates can and do change, but they must be posted in the taxi. At the moment, the fixed fare between the airport and the port is €19.00. You must tell the driver you want this fixed rate before you get into the taxi. If you don’t see the list of fixed fares or a working meter inside the taxi, don’t get in – there are plenty of illegal taxis around ready to swindle unsuspecting visitors out of much more than the appropriate fare.

>> Finding Cheap Airfare to Naples
>> Budget Airlines that Fly to Naples

How to Get to the Naples Cruise Port from Napoli Centrale Train Station

As is the case with transportation to and from the airport, your transportation options to and from the train station in Naples are limited to buses and taxis.

• Public Bus – Naples’ main train station, called Napoli Centrale, is next to Piazza Garibaldi and is a major hub for public buses in the city. This also happens to be a stereotypically bad “around the train station neighborhood” (some don’t live down to their reputation, but this one is just blech). If you’re up for an adventure, some interesting people-watching, and you’re on a budget, you can get city bus R2 – it starts at Piazza Garibaldi and one of its early stops is the Piazza Municipio (near the port). There’s also the Alibus (listed above under transport from the airport to the port), which runs between the airport and Piazza Municipio, with a stop at Piazza Garibaldi. An Alibus ticket is €3.00 (which you can buy right on the bus), and a ticket for the R2 is €1.20 (which you need to buy from an automated machine at the train station or from a tobacco shop or newsstand before you board).
• Taxi – Piazza Garibaldi and Napoli Centrale aren’t just a major hub for city buses, they’re also a big stop for the city taxis. It seems there’s a long taxi queue in front of the station all the time, so if you want to hop in a cab it’s easy to get one as soon as you walk out of the station. As mentioned above, you want to make absolutely sure the taxi has a working meter and a posted list of the fixed fares, or you run the risk of it being an illegal taxi that might ask for an exorbitant rate. The fixed rates to the port from the train station can and do change, but at the moment it’s €11.00 one-way. You must tell the driver you want this fixed rate before you get into the taxi.

The website for the Port Authority of Naples isn’t as useful for practical passenger information as one might hope, but it does have an English version.

Naples cruise port photo is from the Port Authority of Naples website

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• A true home-cooked meal in Italy: Home Food
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• "Homeless Paintings of the Italian Renaissance"
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>> Italy Ports of Call: Where Cruise Ships Stop in Italy

Of course, cruise companies offer tour options for every port of call so that you don’t have to research all that stuff yourself. The downside is that these tours are often more expensive than if you booked something on your own – but most people still book through the cruise ships for the simple reason that they guarantee you’ll be back at the ship in time before it sets off for the next port. If you go out on your own and the bus breaks down, you’d pay for your own transportation to catch up with the ship.

Well, not anymore.

WhyGo Italy partner Viator now not only offers shore excursions in Italy (and throughout the rest of the world), they guarantee they’ll have you back to your ship in time for departure or they’ll pay all the costs of getting you to the next port to get back to your ship. That wouldn’t be enough to pull you away from just booking your day trips through the cruise company, but the discounts available on the shore excursions should be. Viator says their shore excursions will be up to 60% cheaper than those offered through the cruise companies, and that adds up quickly if you’re doing multiple tours. Additionally, if you book your shore excursion through Viator and find a lower price later, you’ll get a refund for the difference.

This link will bring you straight to all the Italy shore excursions available on the Viator site, or you can click on the pretty blue button to the right. All you need to do is browse through the options (you can narrow the search down further by choosing a specific city with the “Select a region/city” drop down menu to the left), click on the name of a tour that looks interesting, and book it right on the site.

(Screenshots of the tour booking pages are below, with arrows on them to show you what you’re looking for.)

You’ll find Rome one-day tours from Civitavecchia, a tour of the Amalfi Coast or Pompeii from Naples, a trip to Pisa and Florence or wine tasting in Chianti from Livorno, a half-day private walking tour of Venice, and more.

Here are a few of the tours available:

• Naples Shore Excursion Private Tour: Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi and Ravello – from $56.21
• Naples Shore Excursion: Naples City and Pompeii Half Day Sightseeing Tour – from $91.56
• Livorno Shore Excursion: Pisa and Florence Private Day Trip – from $107.26
• Livorno Shore Excursion: Chianti and Tuscany Countryside Private Wine Tour – from $133.42
• Venice Shore Excursion: Small-Group Best of Venice Walking Tour and Grand Canal Taxi Ride – from $120.34
• Civitavecchia Shore Excursion: Rome in One Day Private Tour – from $341.19

Other articles you might find useful:

• Rome Cruise Terminal: Where It Is & How to Get There
• Venice Cruise Terminal: Where It Is & How to Get There

photo by liberalmind1012